Finding our Footing

We have been pleasantly surprised with West Virginia, which has forced us to revisit some of our less-than-generous stereotypes about the state. I was quick to judge when I saw numerous confederate flags, only to feel guilty when I saw “Heritage not Hate” written over the top of some of them. We met a number of friendly locals at a free campground and even got up the guts to invite a local couple to join us for dinner one night (something we should definitely do more often!). The result was a stimulating intellectual conversation about everything from guns and politics to work and family. Additionally, the climbing – at Seneca Rocks and New River Gorge – was incredible and the views were absolutely spectacular.

A view of Seneca Rocks. The top is so narrow that you can climb up one side and repel down the other.

The Summersville Lake section of New River Gorge

John enjoying a view of the New River Gorge.

The New River Gorge bridge is the third highest bridge in the US and one of the longest single span arch bridges in the world.

Back in September, we spent three weeks in the Red River Gorge. It’s one of the most well known sport climbing areas in the world and with reason. However, my big complaint was that everything was overhung so most climbs require a lot of endurance, but not a lot of technique. We met people there who could flash an overhung 12 but couldn’t climb a balancey 10a to save their life. I would get to the top of a climb and I’d be proud to survive the pump factor, but no individual part of the climb was particularly difficult or satisfying.

The New River Gorge, where we have been for the past few days, is often compared to the Red; however, the climbing is completely different. At the New, the walls are usually vertical and require lots of balance, footwork, and technique. Instead of just muscling your way to the top, you have to stop and puzzle your way through each move, which I find much more rewarding. In only three days of climbing there, we found more favorite climbs than three weeks in the Red. In fact, John climbed an 11d that he proclaimed was his all-time favorite climb. Ever.

John at the top of his new favorite climb: Under the Milky Way, 11d

We could have stayed much longer, but the approaching winter is chasing us South. At this point, we’re just hoping to get to climb at all the areas left on our eastern climbing list before it gets too cold.