Pohara

Description: Pohara’s sea cliffs provide coastal climbs with stunning views. It is located only 10 minutes from Payne’s Ford so it’s worth checking out if you’re already in the area. The climbs are generally taller than those at Payne’s Ford (some may require a rope longer than 60m) and see more sunlight. A great area to practice endurance, as there are a number of climbs with a slight, sustained overhang (particularly on Bo Peep Wall).

Rock Type: Limestone
Climbs: ~100, primarily in the 18-24 range
Location: 10 minutes from Hangdog camp and Payne’s Ford Climbing area, on the Northern coast of the South Island. Map

My Experience

After two days climbing at Payne’s Ford, we decided to check out Pohara’s climbing with some of our fellow campers/climbers. Looking around, I could see that New Zealand draws people from all over the world, as our group of ~15 people featured people from all over: Israel, France, Canada, Germany, Sweden, Australia, New Zealand, and the US.

We spent most of our time on Bo Peep Slab, which is questionably named as it is overhung the entire way. This wall is famous for providing extended, pumpy climbs as well as hosting an annual climbing competition/costume contest (unfortunately we weren’t there for that).

Status Anxiety on Bo Peep Slab (18): This is a well-renowned climb that heads steadily left as you climb up. The repel down leaves the climber dangling 15+ feet from the wall and being lowered into a gap in a group of trees where a hammock/net is waiting.

John also got to work on a tough 25 with the guy who originally bolted the route. Unfortunately, I am not sure what route it was.