World famous multi-pitch sport climbing paradise with routes up to 23 pitches. Most climbs require only a few minutes walk from the campgrounds (and are sometimes only a few feet from the road). A 70 meter rope is a must in order to get on all the exquisite climbs here. Potrero Chico is one of the best climbing locations in North America- definitely worth a visit.
Rock Type: Limestone
Climbs: Hundreds of climbs up to 2000 feet tall
Location: About 25 miles northwest of Monterrey: Map
My Experience
My first trip to Potrero was only a few months after I had started climbing, so it was certainly a shock. Prior to the trip, the only time I had climbed anything taller than the 30 foot climbs in Central Texas was on a short trip to Arkansas (where the climbs were still only about 60 feet tall). I am petrified of heights (I know… it’s a little weird that I climb), so I was understandable petrified when I arrived and saw the massive cliffs rising up on either side of me.
I made it my trip goal to do one 3-pitch climb before the week was up. However, on the very first day there, I somehow got talked into warming up by leading a 3-pitch climb. The thing about Potrero is that it is bolted like everyone is a 5.11+ climber. So if you are on a 5.9 climb, the bolts are SUPER far apart (which is fine if you are a more experienced climber). Needless to say, I conquered my fear of multi-pitch and my fear of leading at the same time… although I was pretty much bawling the entire time.
By the end of the trip, I had climbed 9 pitches of Yankee Clipper, climbed to the top of one of the spires, and gotten even more lead experience. I also got to witness my friends in their first ‘epic’, when a confusing repel route left them stranded on the wall for hours until a rescue team was able to get them down. It was certainly an unforgettable trip
Aside from the wonderful climbing, the small town of Hidalgo is wonderful. They have an open market a few times a week, where nearly everyone in town comes out and sets up over a mile of tents selling fresh fruit, textiles, juice, vegetables, etc. Everyone in town is extremely friendly, although knowing Spanish is helpful.
Notable Climbs:
- Yankee Clipper 12a, 15 pitches– Up through the first 9 pitches (which I did), the hardest climb is a 10+. Getting up 1000 feet on this climb was my big accomplishment for the trip.
- El Sendero Diablo 11c, 6 pitches– This is John’s favorite climb. Every single pitch is 10d or harder, so you never get a break.
- Anything on the spires!
Leave a Reply